Starting System: Testing and Inspection
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59° and 100 °F (15° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the PCM to clear any DTCs.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Alternate Procedure
1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm
2. Remove the No.1 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse from the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
3. With the shift lever in Park or Neutral, turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, battery negative cable connected to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then check the starter again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection fixed the problem. The starting system is OK.
NO - If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 5. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 7. If it won't disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch.
5. Make sure the transmission is in Park or Neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
6. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and connector.
- Substitute a known-good starter relay.
- Check the BLU/WHT wire between the starter cut relay and the transmission range switch.
7. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
8. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is cranking voltage 8.5 volts or higher and current draw below 380 amps?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine
9. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.