Removal Notes

When Removing the Caliper, Remember...

- Prior to removing the calipers, remove/siphon brake fluid from master-cylinder until the reservoir is only 1/3 full.

- Brake fluid will remove paint and damage electrical connections. Use a drip pan and fender covers to protect the vehicle's finish and electrical system.

- Always replace all brake linings on an axle. Never replace only one wheel. Unequal lining thickness between wheels on the same axle will result in a strong steering pull when the brakes are applied.

- Work on one side at a time. If you forget how to reassemble the parts you can always use the other side as a model.

- When forcing the piston back into the caliper, open the bleeder valve first. Corrosion and other deposits accumulate inside of the caliper. If the bleeder valve is not opened when the piston is forced back into the caliper, these deposits will be forced back through the brake lines and into the master-cylinder.

- When pushing the pistons back into the caliper with the bleeder screw open, a stream of brake fluid will be expelled from the bleeder screw for 2-3 feet. Use a drip pan and be careful not to "shoot" brake fluid onto the vehicle's finish. A cleaner method is to use a piece of clear plastic hose and a glass or plastic jar to catch the expelled fluid.

- Upon removal, Do Not allow the calipers to hang by the flexible brake hoses. The brake hoses can be damaged easily by this practice. These hoses are double walled, damage to the interior pressure hose will not be visible.

- Do not depress the brake pedal with either caliper removed from the rotor. The caliper pistons will be inadvertently expelled from the caliper. If this occurs rebuild or replace the caliper, do not attempt to insert the piston back into the caliper.