Cleaning and Inspection

VALVE BODY
Clean the valve housings, valves, plugs, springs, and separator plates with a standard parts cleaning solution only. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any type of caustic solution.

Do not immerse any of the electrical components in cleaning solution. Clean the governor solenoid and sensor and the dual solenoid and harness assembly by wiping them off with dry shop towels only.

Dry all except the electrical parts with compressed air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from obstructions. Do not use rags or shop towels to dry or wipe off valve body components. Lint from these materials can stick to valve body parts, interfere with valve operation, and clog filters and fluid passages.

Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only serviceable components. Be sure the vent ports in the solenoid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris ' Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DR13 scan tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either part has sustained physical damage (dented, deformed, broken, etc.).

CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibration and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do not try to remove the filter as this will damage the valve housing.

Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or correct a loose lever. Replace these components if worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.

Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straightedge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may be removed with crocus cloth using only very light pressure.

Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat surface. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are heavily scored, the valve body will have to be replaced.

CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated aluminum. Aluminum components are identified by the dark color of the special coating applied to the surface (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand aluminum valves or plugs under any circumstances. This practice could damage the special coating causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.

Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs, nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth but do not round off the edges of the valve or plug lands. Maintaining sharpness of these edges is vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter from lodging between the valves and plugs and the bore.

Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors. Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken coils.

Check the two separator plates for distortion or damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing, lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean and clear. Check condition of the upper housing and transfer plate check balls as well. The check balls and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.

Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves and plugs should drop freely into the bores.

Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new, it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a valve body assembly unless it is damaged in handling.

The only serviceable valve body components are listed below. The remaining valve body components are serviced only as part of a complete valve body assembly. Serviceable parts are:
- dual solenoid and harness assembly
- solenoid gasket
- solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder bolt
- switch valve and spring
- pressure adjusting screw and bracket assembly
- throttle lever
- manual lever and shaft seal
- throttle lever shaft seal, washer, and E-clip
- fluid filter and screws
- detent ball and spring
- valve body screws
- governor pressure solenoid
- governor pressure sensor and retaining clip
- park lock rod and E-clip

TRANSMISSION
GENERAL INFORMATION
Inspect the transmission bushings during overhaul. Bushing condition is important as worn, scored bushings contribute to low pressures, clutch slip and accelerated wear of other components. However, do not replace bushings as a matter of course. Replace bushings only when they are actually worn, or scored.

Use recommended tools to replace bushings. The tools are sized and designed to remove, install, and seat bushings correctly. The bushing replacement tools are included in Bushing Tool Set C-3887-B.

Pre-sized service bushings are available for replacement purposes. Only the sun gear bushings are not serviced. Low cost of the sun gear assembly makes it easier to simply replace the gear and bushings as an assembly.

Heli-Coil inserts can be used to repair damaged, stripped or worn threads in aluminum parts. These inserts are available from most automotive parts suppliers. Stainless steel inserts are recommended.

The use of crocus cloth is permissible where necessary, providing it is used carefully. When used on shafts, or valves, use extreme care to avoid rounding off sharp edges. Sharp edges are vital as they prevent foreign matter from getting between the valve and valve bore.

Do not reuse oil seals, gaskets, seal rings, or O-rings during overhaul. Replace these parts as a matter of course. Also do not reuse snap rings or E-clips that are bent or distorted. Replace these parts as well.

See TSB 21-010-06 4/14/2006

Lubricate transmission parts with Mopar(R) ATF Plus 4, Type 9602, transmission fluid during overhaul and assembly. Use petroleum jelly, Mopar(R) Door Ease, or Ru-Glyde to prelubricate seals, O-rings, and thrust washers. Petroleum jelly can also be used to hold parts in place during reassembly.

TRANSMISSION CASE CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the case in a solvent tank. Flush the case bores and fluid passages thoroughly with solvent. Dry the case and all fluid passages with compressed air. Be sure all solvent is removed from the case and that all fluid passages are clear.

NOTE: Do not use shop towels or rags to dry the case (or any other transmission component) unless they are made from lint-free materials. Lint will stick to case surfaces and transmission components and circulate throughout the transmission after assembly. A sufficient quantity of lint can block fluid passages and interfere with valve body operation.

Inspect the case for cracks, porous spots, worn bores, or damaged threads. Damaged threads can be repaired with Heli-Coil thread inserts. However, the case will have to be replaced if it exhibits any type of damage or wear.

Lubricate the front band adjusting screw threads with petroleum jelly and thread the screw part-way into the case. Be sure the screw turns freely.

OVERRUNNING CLUTCH/LOW-REVERSE
DRUM/OVERDRIVE PISTON RETAINER
Clean the overrunning clutch assembly, clutch cam, low-reverse drum, and overdrive piston retainer in solvent. Dry them with compressed air after cleaning.

Inspect condition of each clutch part after cleaning. Replace the overrunning clutch roller and spring assembly if any rollers or springs are worn or damaged, or if the roller cage is distorted, or damaged. Replace the cam if worn, cracked or damaged.

Replace the low-reverse drum if the clutch race, roller surface or inside diameter is scored, worn or damaged. Do not remove the clutch race from the low-reverse drum under any circumstances. Replace the drum and race as an assembly if either component is damaged.

Examine the overdrive piston retainer carefully for wear, cracks, scoring or other damage. Be sure the retainer hub is a snug fit in the case and drum. Replace the retainer if worn or damaged.

Accumulator Components:

ACCUMULATOR
Inspect the accumulator piston and seal rings. Replace the seal rings if worn or cut. Replace the piston if chipped or cracked.

Check condition of the accumulator inner and outer springs. Replace the springs if the coils are cracked, distorted or collapsed.

FRONT SERVO
Clean the servo piston components with solvent and dry them with compressed air. Wipe the band clean with lint free shop towels.

Replace the front band if distorted, lining is burned, flaking off, or worn to the point where the grooves in the lining material are no longer visible.

Inspect the servo components. Replace the springs if collapsed, distorted or broken. Replace the guide, rod and piston if cracked, bent, or worn. Discard the servo snap ring if distorted or warped.

Check the servo piston bore for wear. If the bore is severely scored, or damaged, it will be necessary to replace the case.

Replace any servo component if doubt exists about condition. Do not reuse suspect parts.

Rear Servo Components:

REAR SERVO
Remove and discard the servo piston seal ring. Then clean the servo components with solvent and dry with compressed air. Replace either spring if collapsed, distorted or broken. Replace the plug and piston if cracked, bent, or worn. Discard the servo snap rings and use a new ones at assembly.

OIL PUMP AND REACTION SHAFT SUPPORT
1. Clean pump and support components with solvent and dry them with compressed air.
2. Check condition of the seal rings and thrust washer on the reaction shaft support. The seal rings do not need to be replaced unless cracked, broken, or severely worn.
3. Inspect the pump and support components. Replace the pump or support if the seal ring grooves or machined surfaces are worn, scored, pitted, or damaged. Replace the pump gears if pitted, worn chipped, or damaged.
4. Inspect the pump bushing. Then check the reaction shaft support bushing. Replace either bushing only if heavily worn, scored or damaged. It is not necessary to replace the bushings unless they are actually damaged.
5. Install the gears in the pump body and measure pump component clearances as follows:
(a) Clearance between outer gear and reaction shaft housing should be 0.010 to 0.063 mm (0.0004 to 0.0025 inch). Clearance between inner gear and reaction shaft housing should be 0.010 to 0.063 mm (0.0004 to 0.0025 inch). Both clearances can be measured at the same time by:
(I) Installing the pump gears in the pump housing.
(II) Position an appropriate piece of Plastigage(R) across both gears.
(III) Align the plastigage to a flat area on the reaction shaft housing.
(IV) Install the reaction shaft to the pump housing.
(V) Separate the reaction shaft housing from the pump housing and measure the Plastigage(R) following the instructions supplied with it.
(b) Clearance between inner gear tooth and outer gear should be 0.08 to 0.19 mm (0.0035 to 0.0075 inch). Measure clearance with an appropriate feeler gauge.
(c) Clearance between outer gear and pump housing should also be 0.010 to 0.19 mm (0.0035 to 0.0075 inch). Measure clearance with an appropriate feeler gauge.

FRONT CLUTCH
Clean and inspect the front clutch components. Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored, burned or charred, or if the facing is flaking off. Replace the steel plates if heavily scored, warped, or broken. Be sure the driving lugs on the plates are in good condition. The lugs must not be bent, cracked or damaged in any way.

Replace the clutch spring and spring retainer if either is distorted, warped or broken.

Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The steel plates should slide freely in the slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or damaged.

Front Clutch Piston Retainer Check Ball Location:

Check action of the check ball in the retainer. The ball must move freely and not stick.

Retainer Bushing Location/Inspection:

NOTE: Inspect the clutch retainer bushings carefully. The retainer bushings are NOT serviceable. It will be necessary to replace the retainer if either bushing is scored, or worn.

Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.

REAR CLUTCH
Clean the clutch components with solvent and dry them with compressed air. Do not use rags or shop towels to dry any of the clutch parts. Lint from such materials will adhere to component surfaces and could restrict or block fluid passages after assembly.

Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored, burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the facing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pressure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent, cracked or damaged in any way.

Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either part is distorted, warped or broken.

Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the retainer and piston. Each check ball must move freely and not stick.

Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or doubt exists about bushing condition.

Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.

Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either washer if worn or damaged.

Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring is metal with interlocking ends.

Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.

PLANETARY GEARTRAIN
Clean the planetary components in solvent and dry them with compressed air.

Check sun gear and driving shell condition. Replace the gear if damaged or if the bushings are scored or worn. The bushings are not serviceable.

Replace the driving shell if worn, cracked or damaged.

Replace planetary gear sets if gears, pinion pins, or carrier are damaged in any way. Replace the annulus gears and supports if either component is worn or damaged.

Inspect the geartrain spacers, thrust plates, snap rings, and thrust washers. Replace any of these parts that are worn, distorted or damaged. Do not attempt to reuse these parts.

The planetary gear thrust washers are different sizes. The large diameter washers go on the front planetary and the smaller washers go on the rear planetary. All the washers have four locating tabs on them. These tabs fit in the holes or slots provided in each planetary gear.

Inspect the output shaft carefully. Pay particular attention to the machined bushing/bearing surfaces on the shaft and the governor valve shaft bore at the shaft rear.

Replace the output shaft if the machined surfaces are scored, pitted, or damaged in any way. Also replace the shaft if the splines are damaged, or exhibits cracks at any location (especially at the governor valve shaft bore).

The annulus gears can be removed from their supports if necessary. Just remove the snap rings and separate the two parts when replacement is necessary. In addition, the annulus gear bushings can be replaced if severely worn, or scored. However it is not necessary to replace the bushings if they only exhibit normal wear. Check bushing fit on the output shaft to be sure.

OVERDRIVE UNIT
Clean the geartrain and case components with solvent. Dry all parts except the bearings with compressed air. Allow bearings to air dry.

Do not use shop towels for wiping parts dry unless the towels are made from a lint-free material. A sufficient quantity of lint (from shop towels, cloths, rags, etc.) could plug the transmission filter and fluid passages.

Discard the old case gasket and seals. Do not attempt to salvage these parts. They are not reusable. Replace any of the overdrive unit snap rings if distorted or damaged.

Minor nicks or scratches on components can be smoothed with crocus cloth. However, do not attempt to reduce severe scoring on any components with abrasive materials. Replace severely scored components; do not try to salvage them.

Check condition of the park lock components and the overdrive case.

Replace the case if cracked, scored, or damaged. Replace the park lock pawl, plug, or spring if worn or damaged. Be sure the bullet at the end of the park lock rod is in good condition. Replace the rod if the bullet is worn or the rod itself is bent or distorted. Do not attempt to straighten the rod.

Check the bushings in the overdrive case. Replace the bushings if severely scored or worn. Also replace the case seal if loose, distorted, or damaged.

Examine the overdrive and direct clutch discs and plates. Replace the discs if the facing is worn, severely scored, or burned and flaking off. Replace the clutch plates if worn, heavily scored, or cracked. Check the lugs on the clutch plates for wear. The plates should slide freely in the drum. Replace the plates or drum if binding occurs.

Check condition of the annulus gear, direct clutch hub, clutch drum and clutch spring. Replace the gear, hub and drum if worn or damaged. Replace the spring if collapsed, distorted, or cracked.

Be sure the splines and lugs on the gear, drum and hub are in good condition. The clutch plates and discs should slide freely in these components.

Inspect the thrust bearings and spring plate. Replace the plate if worn or scored. Replace the bearings if rough, noisy, brinnelled, or worn.

Inspect the planetary gear assembly and the sun gear and bushings. If either the sun gear or the bushings are damaged, replace the gear and bushings as an assembly. The gear and bushings are not serviced separately.

The planetary carrier and pinions must be in good condition. Also be sure the pinion pins are secure and in good condition. Replace the carrier if worn or damaged.

Inspect the overrunning clutch and race. The race surface should be smooth and free of scores. Replace the overrunning clutch assembly or the race if either assembly is worn or damaged in any way.

Inspect the output shaft and governor components. Replace the shaft pilot bushing and inner bushing if damaged. Replace either shaft bearing if rough or noisy. Replace the bearing snap rings if distorted or cracked.

Check the machined surfaces on the output shaft. These surfaces should clean and smooth. Very minor nicks or scratches can be smoothed with crocus cloth. Replace the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.

Inspect the output shaft bushings. The small bushing is the intermediate shaft pilot bushing. The large bushing is the overrunning clutch hub bushing. Replace either bushing if scored, pitted, cracked, or worn.