32RE 3-Speed

GOVERNOR AND PARK GEAR
Thoroughly clean all the governor parts in a suitable cleaning solution but do not use any type of caustic cleaning agents.

Governor Weights:

Governor Components:

The governor weight components and the governor valve, must slide freely in their bores when clean and dry. Minor surface scratches and burrs can be smoothed with crocus cloth.

The aluminum governor valve and outer weight have a hard coating on them. Check condition of this coating carefully. Do not reuse either part if the coating is damaged.

Inspect the governor weight spring for distortion. Replace the spring, if distorted, collapsed, or broken. Clean the filter in solvent and dry it with compressed air. Replace the filter, if damaged. Inspect the park gear for chipped or worn gear teeth or damaged ring grooves. Replace the gear, if damaged.

Check the teeth on the park gear for wear or damage. Replace the gear if necessary. Inspect the metal seal rings on the park gear hub. Replace the rings only if severely worn, or broken.

EXTENSION HOUSING AND PARK LOCK
Clean the housing and park lock components in solvent and dry them with compressed air.

Park Sprag, Shaft And Spring:

Park Sprag Reaction Plug And Spring Location:

Examine the park lock components in the housing. If replacement is necessary, remove the shaft with parallel jaw snap ring pliers and remove the sprag and spring. Then remove the spring clip and reaction plug. Compress the reaction plug spring clip only enough to remove and install it. Do not distort the clip during removal or installation.

Correct Position Of Sprag And Spring:

Be sure a replacement sprag is installed so the sprag locking lug will face the park gear. Also be sure the spring is correctly positioned as shown. The sprag may not retract if the spring is improperly installed.

VALVE BODY
Serviceable valve body components are:
- park lock rod and E-clip
- switch valve and spring
- pressure adjusting screw bracket
- throttle valve lever
- manual lever
- manual lever shaft seal, washer, E-clip and detent ball
- fluid filter
- converter clutch solenoid

The remaining valve body components are serviced only as part of a complete valve body assembly.

Clean the valve body components in a parts cleaning solution only. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any type of caustic solution. Dry the parts with compressed air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from obstructions.

NOTE: Do not use rags or shop towels to wipe off valve body components. Lint from these materials will adhere to the valve body components. Lint will interfere with valve operation and may clog filters and fluid passages.

Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or correct a loose lever. Replace these Components if worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.

Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straightedge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may be removed with crocus cloth using only very light pressure.

Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface may be corrected by smoothing the surface with crocus cloth. The cloth should be in sheet form and be positioned on a surface plate, sheet of plate glass, or equally flat surface. However, if distortion is severe or any surfaces are heavily scored, the valve body will have to be replaced.

CAUTION: Many of the valve body valves and plugs are made of coated aluminum. Aluminum components can be identified by the dark color of the special coating applied to the surface (or by testing with a magnet). DO NOT polish or sand aluminum valves or plugs with any type of material, or under any circumstances. This practice might damage the special coating and cause the valves and plugs to stick and bind.

Valve Body Components:

Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs, nicks, or scores. Also inspect the coating on the aluminum valves and plugs. If the coating is damaged or worn through, the valve (or valve body) should be replaced.

Aluminum valves and plugs should not be sanded or polished under any circumstances. However, minor burrs or scratches on steel valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth but do not round off the valve or plug edges. Squareness of these edges is vitally important. These edges prevent foreign matter from lodging between the valves, plugs and bore.

Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors. Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken coils.

Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves and plugs should drop freely into the bores. Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new, it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a valve body assembly unless it is damaged in handling.

TRANSMISSION
Clean the case in a solvent tank. Flush the case bores and fluid passages thoroughly with solvent. Dry the case and all fluid passages with compressed air. Be sure all solvent is removed from the case and that all fluid passages are clear.

NOTE: Do not use shop towels or rags to dry the case (or any other transmission component) unless they are made from lint-free materials. Lint will readily adhere to case surfaces and transmission components and will circulate throughout the transmission after assembly. A sufficient quantity of lint can block fluid passages and interfere with valve body operation.

Inspect the case for cracks, porous spots, worn servo bores, or damaged threads. However, the case will have to be replaced if it exhibits damage or wear.

Lubricate the front band adjusting screw and locknut with petroleum jelly and thread it part way into the case. Be sure the screw turns freely and does not bind. Install the locknut on the screw after checking screw thread operation.

Inspect all the transmission bushings during overhaul. Bushing condition is important as worn, scored bushings contribute to low pressures, clutch slip and accelerated wear of other components. Replace worn, or scored bushings, or if doubt exists about bushing condition.

Use recommended tools to replace bushings. The tools are sized and designed to remove, install and seat bushings correctly. The bushing replacement tools are included in Bushing Tool Sets C-3887-B, or C-3887-J.

Pre-sized service bushings are available for replacement purposes. Only the sun gear bushings are not serviced. Replace the gear as an assembly if the bushings are severely scored, or worn.

Heli-Coil inserts are recommended for repairing damaged, stripped or worn threads in aluminum parts. Stainless steel inserts are preferred.

The use of crocus cloth is permissible where necessary, providing it is used carefully. When used on valves, use extreme care to avoid rounding off sharp edges. Sharp edges are vital as they prevent foreign matter from getting between the valve and valve bore.

Do not reuse oil seals, gaskets, seal rings, or O-rings during overhaul. Replace these parts as a matter of course. Also do not reuse snap rings or E-clips that are bent or distorted. Replace these parts as well.

Lubricate transmission parts with MOPAR(r) ATF+4, Type 9602 transmission fluid during assembly. Use MOPAR(r) Door Ease, or Ru-Glyde to lubricate piston seals and O-rings. Use petroleum jelly on thrust washers and to hold parts in place during reassembly.

REAR SUPPORT AND LOW-REVERSE DRUM

Rear Support-36RH:

Clean the drum and support in parts cleaning solvent and dry them with compressed air.

Inspect the drum and support for evidence of wear, scoring, or cracks. Assemble the support, drum and overrunning clutch race and check fit of the components.

Examine the overrunning clutch race. The race is a permanent press fit on the hub splines of the low-reverse drum. The drum and race are replaced as an assembly if either part is worn or damaged. Also check fit of the race on the drum. Replace the assembly if the race is loose on the hub splines.

OVERRUNNING CLUTCH/LOW-REVERSE DRUM/REAR SUPPORT
Clean the overrunning clutch assembly, clutch cam, low-reverse drum and rear support in solvent. Dry them with compressed air after cleaning.

Inspect condition of each clutch part after cleaning. Replace the overrunning clutch roller and spring assembly if any rollers or springs are worn or damaged, or if the roller cage is distorted, or damaged. Replace the cam if worn, cracked or damaged.

Replace the low-reverse drum if the clutch race, roller surface or inside diameter is scored, worn or damaged. Do not remove the clutch race from the low-reverse drum under any circumstances. Replace the drum and race as an assembly if either component is damaged.

Examine the rear support carefully for wear, cracks, scoring or other damage. Be sure the support hub is a snug fit in the case and drum. Replace the support if worn or damaged.

FRONT SERVO
Clean the servo piston components with solvent and dry them with compressed air. Wipe the band clean with lint free shop towels.

Replace the front band if distorted, lining is burned, flaking off, or worn to the point where the grooves in the lining material are no longer visible.

Inspect the servo components. Replace the springs if collapsed, distorted or broken. Replace the guide, rod and piston if cracked, bent, or worn. Discard the servo snap ring if distorted or warped.

Check the servo piston bore for wear. If the bore is severely scored, or damaged, it will be necessary to replace the case.

Replace any servo component if doubt exists about condition. Do not reuse suspect parts.

REAR SERVO

Rear Servo Components:

Remove and discard the servo piston seal ring. Then clean the servo components with solvent and dry with compressed air. Replace either spring if collapsed, distorted or broken. Replace the plug and piston if cracked, bent, or worn. Discard the servo snap rings and use a new ones at assembly.

OIL PUMP AND REACTION SHAFT SUPPORT
1. Clean pump and support components with solvent and dry them with compressed air.
2. Check condition of the seal rings and thrust washer on the reaction shaft support. The seal rings do not need to be replaced unless cracked, broken, or severely worn.
3. Inspect the pump and support components. Replace the pump or support if the seal ring grooves or machined surfaces are worn, scored, pitted, or damaged. Replace the pump gears if pitted, worn chipped, or damaged.
4. Inspect the pump bushing. Then check the reaction shaft support bushing. Replace either bushing only if heavily worn, scored or damaged. It is not necessary to replace the bushings unless they are actually damaged.
5. Install the gears in the pump body and measure pump component clearances as follows:
a. Clearance between outer gear and reaction shaft housing should be 0.010 to 0.063 mm (0.0004 to 0.0025 inch). Clearance between inner gear and reaction shaft housing should be 0.025 to 0.177 mm (0.001 to 0.007 inch). Both clearances can be measured at the same time by:
I. Installing the pump gears in the pump housing.
II. Position an appropriate piece of Plastigage across both gears.
III. Align the plastigage to a flat area on the reaction shaft housing.
IV. Install the reaction shaft to the pump housing.
V. Separate the reaction shaft housing from the pump housing and measure the Plastigage following the instructions supplied with it.
b. Clearance between inner gear tooth and outer gear should be 0.08 to 0.19 min (0.0035 to 0.0075 inch). Measure clearance with an appropriate feeler gauge.
c. Clearance between outer gear and pump housing should also be 0.010 to 0.19 min (0.0035 to 0.0075 inch). Measure clearance with an appropriate feeler gauge.

FRONT CLUTCH
Clean and inspect the front clutch components. Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored, burned or charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the facing is flaking off. Replace the steel plates and reaction plate if heavily scored, warped, or broken. Be sure the driving lugs on the discs and plate are also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent, cracked or damaged in any way.

Replace the piston springs and spring retainer if either are distorted, warped or broken.

Check the lug grooves in the clutch piston retainer. The steel plates should slide freely in the slots. Replace the piston retainer if the grooves are worn or damaged. Also check action of the check ball in the piston retainer. The ball must move freely and not stick.

Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or there is any doubt about bushing condition.

Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.

Check the clutch piston check ball. The ball should be securely in place. Replace the piston if the ball is missing, or seized in place.

REAR CLUTCH
Clean the clutch components with solvent and dry them with compressed air.

Check condition of the input shaft seal rings. It is not necessary to remove or replace rings unless they are broken, cracked, or no longer securely hooked together.

Inspect the input shaft splines and machined surfaces. Very minor nicks or scratches can be smoothed off with crocus cloth. replace the shaft if the splines are damaged, or any of the machined surfaces are severely scored.

Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored, burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the facing is flaking off.

Replace the steel plates and the pressure plate if heavily scored, warped, or broken. Be sure the driving lugs on the discs and plates are also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent, cracked or damaged in any way.

Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either part is distorted, warped or broken.

Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The steel plates should slide freely in the slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or damaged. Also check action of the retainer check ball. The ball must move freely and not stick.

Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously damaged.

Check thrust washer condition. Washer thickness should be 1.55 to 1.60 min (0.061 to 0.063 inch). Replace the washer if worn or damaged.

Check condition of the two seal rings on the input shaft and the single seal ring on the piston retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only if severely worn, cracked, or cannot be hooked together.

PLANETARY GEARTRAIN/OUTPUT SHAFT
Clean the intermediate shaft and planetary components in solvent and dry them with compressed air.

Inspect the planetary gear sets and annulus gears. The planetary pinions, shafts, washers, and retaining pins are serviceable. However, if a pinion carrier is damaged, the entire planetary gear set must be replaced as an assembly.

Replace the annulus gears if the teeth are chipped, broken, or worn, or the gear is cracked. Replace the planetary thrust plates and the tabbed thrust washers if cracked, scored or worn.

Inspect the machined surfaces of the intermediate shaft. Be sure the oil passages are open and clear. Replace the shaft if scored, pitted, or damaged.

Inspect the sun gear and driving shell. If either component is worn or damaged, remove the sun gear rear retaining ring and separate the sun gear and thrust plate from the driving shell. Then re, lace the necessary component.

Replace the sun gear as an assembly if the gear teeth are chipped or worn. Also replace the gear as an assembly if the bushings are scored or worn. The sun gear bushings are not serviceable. Replace the thrust plate if worn, or severely scored. Replace the driving shell if distorted, cracked, or damaged in any way.

Replace all snap rings during geartrain assembly. Reusing snap rings is not recommended.