Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

(A) "Huck Fastener"

Lower Left Front # 1 Crossmember Rivet Replacement

This procedure should be done on flat ground or on a drive-on lift, with the wheels pointed straight and full weight resting on the wheels. This fastener could be either a standard cold head rivet in light duty applications or a large "huck" bolt which has the appearance of a large "pop" rivet.

NOTE:
USE WARRANTY DEALER CODING: 5020, AS BASIC PART NO.

1. Remove damaged or loose rivet:

COLD HEAD RIVETS:

^ Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8") hole through the rivet.

^ Redrill the same hole through the shank of the rivet with a 9.525 mm (3/8") drill.

^ Remove the rivet head with an air chisel.

^ Drive out the rivet with a punch and hammer.

"HUCK" RIVETS:





^ Use a flat chisel and hammer (or air chisel) to split the exposed collar of the huck fastener (Figure 1).





^ Knock the rivet pin out of the blind side with a 6.35 mm (1/4") drift punch and hammer (Figure 2).





^ Cut the rivet's head off with a hammer and flat chisel (Figure 3).





^ Knock the sleeve out of the blind side with a 9.525 mm (3/8") drift punch and hammer (Figure 4).

CAUTION:
DO NOT REMOVE THE FASTENER WITH A CUTTING TORCH BECAUSE DAMAGE TO THE FRAME STRUCTURE IS LIKELY TO RESULT.

2. After removing the rivet, verify the noise came from this location by pounding a wedge between the crossmember and the frame liner, then driving the vehicle to reproduce the noise. The wedge will lift the crossmember off of the inner frame liner and eliminate any noise if the lower left front # 1 crossmember joint is the source of the noise.

3. With the wedge still in place, insert the Bearing Strip (F6TZ-5D033-BA) between the # 1 crossmember and frame liner Align the strip approximately centered and extending well past the hole location. Remove the wedge and drill a 11.113 mm (7/16") diameter hole through the bearing strip.





4. Line ream the existing hole through the liner, frame flange and crossmember to 14.288 mm (9/16") (Figure 5). Remove any burrs after reaming.

NOTE:
TO PROPERLY REAM THE HOLE ON A VEHICLE WITH LEAF SPRINGS, THE SPRING MUST BE REMOVED TO PROVIDE VERTICAL ACCESS TO THE RIVET HOLE.





5. Install a 9/16" Grade 8 torque prevailing Nut (34990-S2) with a Washer (44880-S2) and a Grade 8 Bolt (58698-S2) with a Washer (44880-S2) (Figure 6).

a. Slide the bolt and washer into the "window" opening on the outside of the frame siderail, and insert it into the newly-reamed hole.

NOTE:
ON VEHICLES WITH QUAD SHOCK ABSORBERS, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE SHOCK/SPRING TOWER TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE "WINDOW" IN THE SIDERAIL.

b. Install the washer and nut and torque nut to 190 14 Nm (140 13 lb-ft). Turn the wheels lock-to-lock several times to seat the joint and retorque. Tack weld the nut to the bolt after tightening.

CAUTION:
DO NOT WELD THE NUT/WASHER TO THE FRAME.

NOTE:
ON HEAVY DUTY VEHICLES, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO UPGRADE THE REPLACEMENT FASTENER TO A 5/8" GRADE 8 TORQUE PREVAILING NUT (34991-S2), BOLT (58720-S100) AND TWO (2) WASHERS (44881-S2) TORQUED TO 250 ±6.8 Nm (185 ±5 LB-FT).