Installation

Figure 1:

1. Remove the insulating material.

a. On earlier models, remove the instrument panel lower sound insulator assembly.

b. For later diesel powered trucks, remove the fasteners holding the engine compartment dash insulation in place.

c. Pull the dash insulation back out of the way.

d. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the lever, removing the pushrod retention clip on older models, Figure 1.

3. Remove the two nuts attaching the clutch master cylinder to the dash panel.

a. Pull the master cylinder into the engine compartment.

b. For, 1988 and later trucks, it will be necessary to disconnect the wiring harness connector from the pushrod switch.

c. Rotate the master cylinder to get it past the switch through the dash opening.

4. Remove the steering column and dash toe plate by removing the five (5) fasteners.

5. Disconnect the brake master cylinder pushrod from the brake pedal.

6. On F-Super Duty, proceed to Step 7. On all units except F-Super Duty, proceed as follows:

a. Remove the four brake booster attaching nuts.

b. Move the brake booster to one side.

Figure 4:

c. Loosen the two (2) fasteners attaching the brake and clutch pedal support to the Y-brace, Figure 4.

7. Check for cracks.
a. Pull back the floor covering and dash sound insulator. (it may be helpful to remove the accelerator pedal.)

b. Inspect the area for pulled welds and torn dash sheet metal.

Figure 8:

c. If there are cracks that have not run out, stop them by drilling a 2-3 mm hole at the end, Figure 8.

NOTE: WELDING OR BRAZING IS NOT RECOMMENDED, BECAUSE IT COULD BE A SOURCE OF FUTURE BLIND SIDE CORROSION.

Figure 4:

8. Thoroughly inspect the brake and clutch support again for cracks in the casting and worn bushings. Also, inspect the "Y" brace for cracks and missing fasteners. Replace as necessary, Figure 4.

9. Remove excess body sealer in the area of the clutch master cylinder, inside the dash.

10. Carefully remove the cowl top cover 12 fasteners (7 in front, 5 in rear).

NOTE: IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE RADIO ANTENNA AND REPOSITION THE HOOD TO ACHIEVE THIS. IF THE HOOD IS REMOVED, MARK THE LOCATION OF THE HINGES WITH A WAX PENCIL, PRIOR TO LOOSENING.

11. Place the main reinforcement in position.

a. Locate positively, using the lower steering column toe plate fastener and a bolt and nut (8 mm or 5/16") through the upper clutch master cylinder stud hole.

NOTE: THE SHEET METAL VARIES FROM TRUCK TO TRUCK AND IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO BEND THE REINFORCEMENT TO GET A GOOD FIT.

b. Tighten the upper nut and bolt securely to compress any distortion in the four sheet metal laminations in this area.

12. Drill the holes for the reinforcement plate.
a. Using a 3/8" (9.5 mm) drill bit, with the reinforcement as a template, drill two holes up into the cowl inner and three holes into the inner side of the dash.

b. De-burr the outside of the holes as necessary.

c. Remove any excess sealant in the area and clean up the drill chips inside the truck and cowl.

13. Attach the smaller plate via the three threaded holes into the engine compartment side of the dash inner panel.

a. Use three 8 mm bolts passed through the main reinforcement, from inside the cab.

b. Install the rubber cap (N804118) onto the end of the uppermost screw from under the dash.

c. Position the plate with the two studs attached inside the cowl, through the two holes drilled from below.

d. Attach two 8 mm nuts from the inside of the cab.

14. Using the paper template provided in the kit, proceed as follows:

Figure 9:

a. Center punch and drill three 3/8" (9.5 mm) holes into the dash reinforcement and through the cowl, from the engine compartment side, Figure 9.

NOTE: DRILLING WILL BE EASIER IF THERE ARE NO SPOTWELDS VISIBLE THROUGH THE THREE HOLES.

b. If necessary, move the pattern outboard slightly to avoid any visible spotwelds.

c. De-burr the holes inside the cowl as necessary and clean up the drill chips inside the cowl.

Figure 10:

15. Place the larger three holed plate from the kit inside the cowl. Attach it with three 8 mm bolts through the dash reinforcement, from the engine compartment side, Figure 10.

16. Inspect the seam between the cowl inner and outer, inside the cowl, for cracks in the sealant. If necessary, add sealant.

17. Replace the cowl top.

a. If the hood was removed, locate the hinges to the wax pencil marks and tighten the fasteners.

b. Replace the radio antenna and windshield washer tube.

18. Re-install the brake booster and stoplight switch, if removed. Tighten the brace bolts.

19. Install the clutch master cylinder.

a. Inspect the clutch master cylinder for leaks in the area of the pushrod. Replace it if there is evidence of leaking.

b. Remove the nut and bolt from the top of the reinforcement.

c. Install the clutch master cylinder.

d. Inspect the position of the clutch master cylinder pushrod hole. The pushrod hole should go onto the lever pin with no force required while the pedal is against the upstop.

NOTE: ALTHOUGH THIS WAS SPECIFIED IN THE INSPECTION PROCEDURE, REPAIR MAY HAVE CHANGED THE SETTING.

e. If the pushrod hole is not in position, install and adjust an adjustable clutch master cylinder pushrod (1987 and prior models) or install a new lever (7A554).

Figure 1:

NOTE: THE NEW LEVER IS TIGHTENED INTO PLACE WHILE THE MASTER CYLINDER PUSHROD IS ATTACHED, TO SET THE CORRECT POSITION, FIGURE 1.

20. Remove the toe plate fastener from the bottom of the reinforcement and reinstall the steering column and five (5) fasteners.

21. Complete reassembly.

a. Re-install the dash sound deadener material and the instrument panel sound insulator.

b. Re-install the engine compartment sound insulator on diesel models.

c. Connect the battery ground terminal.