Starting System: Testing and Inspection

Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

NOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 ° and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the powertrain control module (PCM) to clear any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
- If you disconnect the battery, do the PCM idle learn procedure.

Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Alternate Procedure




1. Hook up the following equipment.
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A around both negative battery cables
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm

2. Remove the No.1 (15 A) fuse from the under food fuse/relay box.
3. With the shift lever in [P] or [N], turn the ignition switch to start (III).

Did the starter crank the engine normally?

YES - The starting system is OK.

NO - Go to step 4.

4. Check the battery condition Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion Then try starting the engine again.

Did the starter crank the engine normally?

YES - Repairing the loose connection fixed the problem The starting system is now OK.

NO - If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 5 If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 7 If it won't disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction.
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch.




5. Make sure the transmission is in [P] or [N], then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B) Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.

Did the starter crank the engine?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Remove the starter, repair or replace as necessary.

6. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and connector.
- Check the BLU/WHT wire between the starter cut relay and transmission range switch.
- Substitute a known-good starter cut relay.

7. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.

Is cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V, and current draw less than or equal to 380 A?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine

8. Check engine speed during cranking.

Is engine speed above 100 rpm?

YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch

9. Remove the starter and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.