Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 degrees F (15 and 38 degrees C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must reset engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning. Select ECM/PCM reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS).
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Hook up the above equipment.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.
5. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
6. With the shift lever in N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 13.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 13.
NO - Check the following:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 8.
- If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 10.
- If it does not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it and check for the following:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
8. Make sure the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and set the parking brake. Disconnect the connector from the starter solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
9. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
- The YEL wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch.
- The RED and BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- The ignition switch.
- The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- The starter cut relay.
10. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.7 V (M/T)/8.5 V (A/T) and is the current draw less than or equal to 230 A (M/T)/350 A (A/T)?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
11. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
12. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the fly wheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
13. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.