Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 degrees F (15 and 38 degrees C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM), otherwise the PCM will continue to stop the injectors from functioning. Select PCM reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS).
- The 12 V battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Hook up the given equipment.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
NOTE: If the HDS does not communicate with the PCM, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems).
4. Remove the No. 61 + B IMA 2 (10 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. With the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 27.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Check the 12 V battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 27.
NO - Check the following:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 7.
- If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 24.
- If it does not disengage from the drive plate ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
7. Remove the air cleaner.
8. Remove the air intake duct.
9. Make sure the transmission is in P or N, and set the parking brake. Disconnect the BLK/WHT harness connector (A) from the starter solenoid S terminal (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 10.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary.
10. Check the No. 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Reinstall the No. 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Go to step 11.
NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck.
11. Remove the starter cut relay from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and test it.
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Replace the starter cut relay.
12. Check the ignition switch.
Is the ignition switch OK?
YES - Go to step 13.
NO - Replace the ignition switch.
13. Measure voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 14.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
14. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair a short ground in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
NO - Go to step 15.
15. Connect the BLK/WHT harness connector to the starter solenoid S terminal.
16. Connect the starter cut relay 4P socket terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 17.
NO - Repair for an open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
17. Remove the jumper wire.
18. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground with the ignition switch turned to START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 19.
NO - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
19. Reinstall the starter cut relay.
20. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: This must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
21. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P).
22. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A12 and body ground with the ignition switch turned to START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 23.
NO - Repair an open in the WHT wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
23. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A7 and body ground with the ignition switch turned to START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
NO - Check for an open in the wire(s) between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM.
24. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current drew less than or equal to 350 A?
YES - Go to step 25.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
25. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 26.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty overrunning clutch
26. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and drive plate ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
27. Select PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
28. Install the No. 61 + B IMA 2 (10 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
29. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) dislays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park Neutral) until the BAT displays at least three segments.