Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Component Tests and General Diagnostics

Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

NOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.




1. Hook up the following equipment:
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoots DLC circuit.
5. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
6. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).

Does the starter crank the engine normally?

YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 12.

NO - Go to step 7.

7. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.

Does the starter crank the engine?

YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 12.

NO - Check the following:

- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 8.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 9.
- If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Starter solenoid malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch




8. Make sure the transmission is in the N or P position (A/T) or neutral (M/T) and set the park brake, then disconnect the connector from the starter solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid S terminal.

Does the starter crank the engine?

YES - Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:

- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and. connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- Check the starter cut relay.

NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.

9. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.

Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A?

YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause:

- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine

10. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.

Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?

YES - Go to step 11.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the problem:

- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch

11. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
12. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.