Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter System Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM) powertrain control module (PCM). otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Hook up the following equipment:
2. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot DLC circuit.
5. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
6. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 8.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 9.
- If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
8. Make sure the shift lever is in the N or P position (A/T) or neutral (M/T) and set the parking brake, then disconnect the connector from the solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid S terminal.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- Check the starter cut relay.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
9. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A?
YES - Go to step 10.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Shorted armature winding
- Drag in the starter armature
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
10. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
11. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.