Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
Special Tools Required
- Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter tester OTC3131
Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
NOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
- The 12 V battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown.
NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST.
Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE?
YES - The battery is OK. Go to step 3.
NO - If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. Testing and Inspection
6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
7. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF. High Voltage Safety
8. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 33.
NO - Go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
10. Check the 12 V battery condition. Testing and Inspection Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 33.
NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:
- If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 31.
- If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
11. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Service and Repair
12. Remove the intake air duct. Engine Removal
13. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P, and set the parking brake, then disconnect the S terminal connector (A) from the starter. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 14.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary.
14. Check the No. 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Reinstall the No. 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Go to step 15.
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM.
15. Remove the starter cut relay from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and test it. Testing and Inspection
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 16.
NO - Replace the starter cut relay.
16. Check the ignition switch. Ignition Switch Test
Is the ignition switch OK?
YES - Go to step 17.
NO - Replace the ignition switch.
17. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 18.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
18. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
19. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
NO - Go to step 20.
20. Connect the S terminal connector to the S terminal.
21. Connect the starter cut relay 4P socket terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 22.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
22. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
23. Remove the jumper wire.
24. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 25.
NO - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
25. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
26. Reinstall the starter cut relay.
27. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
28. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P).
29. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A12 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 30.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and PCM connector terminal A12. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
30. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A7 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, PCM Update or substitute a known-good PCM, Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. Service and Repair
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and PCM connector terminal A7.
31. Do the STARTING TEST with the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester.
NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 350 A?
YES - Go to step 32.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty overrunning clutch
32. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
33. Select PCM reset Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.
34. Turn the IMA battery module switch ON. High Voltage Safety
35. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in N or P) until the BAT displays at least three segments.
36. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures. Programming and Relearning