Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Part One




Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement


















Installation

1. Connecting Rod Bearing - Selection





1. Each connecting rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.00094 in), in 0.006 mm (0.00024 in) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the rod cap, the other half is on the connecting rod.) If you cannot read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent.









2. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft in either location.





3. Use the big end bore codes and the rod journal codes to select appropriate replacement bearings from the following table.

NOTE:
* Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
* When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.

2. Connecting Rod Bolt - Inspection

1. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.






2. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B.







3. If the difference in diameter is out of specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.

3. Connecting Rod Caps/Bearing Halves





1. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the connecting rod bolts.

2. Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1 and connecting rod No. 4. Line up the mark (A) on the connecting rod and the bearing cap.

3. Install the bearing caps and the bolts finger-tight.

4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into connecting rod No. 2 and connecting rod No. 3. Line up the mark on the connecting rod and the bearing cap.

5. Install the bearing caps and the bolts finger-tight.





6. Torque the bolts to 41 Nm (4.2 kgm, 30 lbft).

7. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120 °.

NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, inspect the connecting rod bolts. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.

4. Engine Baffle Plate





1. Install the baffle plate.

5. Set The Crankshaft To Top Dead Center





1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.

6. Engine Oil Pump Assembly





1. Align the dowel pin (A) on the rear balancer shaft with the mark (B) on the oil pump.





2. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm long pin punch (Snap-on PPC108LA or equivalent) (A) into the maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.





3. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump mounting bolts (A).

4. Loosely install the oil pump (B) with a new O-ring (C).

5. Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts.





6. Set the oil pump chain on the oil pump chain sprocket (A) with the punch mark (B) aligned with the center of the two colored link plates (C), then install the oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.

7. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt (D), then install the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.

8. Install the oil pump chain guide (E).

9. Remove the 6 mm long pin punch (F).

7. Oil Pump Chain Tensioner





1. Turn the plate (A) counterclockwise, to release the lock, then push the oil pump chain auto-tensioner arm (B), and set the first cam (C) to the first edge of the rack (D). Insert a 3.0 mm (7/64 in) diameter pin (E) into the hole (F).

NOTE: If the chain tensioner is not set up as described, the tensioner will become damaged.





2. Install the oil pump chain tensioner, then remove the 3.0 mm (7/64 in) diameter pin.

8. Coolant Separator





1. Install a new coolant separator (A) in the engine block whenever the engine block is replaced.

9. Cylinder Head Assembly





1. Clean the cylinder head and the engine block surface.

2. Install the new cylinder head gasket (A) and the dowel pins (B) on the engine block. Always use a new cylinder head gasket.

3. Install the cylinder head on the engine block.





4. Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.

5. If either diameter is less than 10.6 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.

6. Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.





7. Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 Nm (4.0 kgm, 29 lbft). Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset click-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.





8. After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90 ° per step) using the sequence shown in step 9. If you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90 °.

NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 6 of the procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.

10. Rocker Arm Assembly





1. Clean and dry the No. 5 rocker shaft holder mating surface.

2. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0004 or 08718-0009) to the cylinder head mating surface of the No. 5 rocker shaft holder and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.

NOTE:
* Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A).
* If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.





3. Install the lost motion assembly in the cylinder head.

NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the lost motion assembly.

4. Insert the bolts (A) into the rocker shaft holder, then install the rocker arm assembly (B) on the cylinder head.

5. Remove the bolts from the rocker shaft holder.

11. Camshaft





1. Remove the wire tie while keeping light tension on the cam chain.

2. Install the exhaust camshaft.

3. Slide the exhaust camshaft in at an angle to allow the cam chain to slip over the VTC actuator's teeth.





4. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The punch mark (A) on the VTC actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket.

5. Apply new engine oil to the camshaft journals and lobes on both cams.

12. Camshaft Holder





1. Set the camshaft holders (A) and cam chain guide B in place.





2. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.








13. Cam Chain





1. To hold the intake camshaft, insert one of the camshaft lock pins (C) into the maintenance hole in CMP pulse plate A and through the No. 5 rocker shaft holder (D).

2. To hold the exhaust camshaft, insert the other camshaft lock pin (C) into the maintenance hole in CMP pulse plate B and through the No. 5 rocker shaft holder (D).





3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link plate (A) aligned with the mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.





4. Install the cam chain on the VTC actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the punch marks (A) aligned with the center of the two colored link plates (B).

14. Cam Chain Tensioner Arm and Cam Chain Guide





1. Install cam chain guide A and the tensioner arm (B).





2. Install cam chain guide B.

15. Cam Chain Auto-Tensioner





1. Compress the auto-tensioner when replacing the cam chain. Remove the pin (A) from the auto-tensioner that was installed during removal. Turn the plate (B) counterclockwise, to release the lock, then press the rod (C), and set the first cam (D) to the first edge of the rack (E). Insert the 1.2 mm (3/64 in) diameter pin back into the holes (F).

NOTE: If the chain tensioner is not set up as described, the tensioner will be damaged.





2. Install the auto-tensioner.





3. Remove the pin from the auto-tensioner.





4. Remove the camshaft lock pin set.