Part One
Piston, Ring, Pin, and Connecting Rod Removal and Installation
Installation
1. Piston Pin
1. Install a piston pin snap ring (A) only on one side.
2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158 °F (70 °C).
4. Assemble the piston (A) and the connecting rod (B) with the mark (C) and the embossed mark (D) on the same side. Install the piston pin (E).
5. Install the remaining snap ring (F).
6. Turn the snap rings in the ring grooves until the end gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.
2. Piston Ring
1. Install the top ring and the second ring as shown. The top ring (A) has a 1T or 1R mark, and the second ring (B) has a 2T or 2R mark. The manufacturing marks (C) must be facing upward.
2. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
3. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
3. Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly
1. Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring compressor. Check that the bearing is securely in place.
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore, then attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting rod assembly.
3. Position the mark (A) to face the cam chain side of the engine.
4. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Push down on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before entering the cylinder bore.
5. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.
4. Crankshaft
1. Hold the crankshaft so rod journal No. 2 and rod journal No. 3 are straight up, then lower the crankshaft into the engine block.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate.
2. Apply new engine oil to the thrust washer surfaces. Install the thrust washers in the No. 4 journal of the engine block.
5. Main Bearing Clearance Inspection
1. Clean each main journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.
2. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.
3. Reinstall the main bearings and the lower block, then torque the bolts to 25 Nm (2.5 kgfm, 18 lbfft).
NOTE:
* Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges.
* Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
4. Tighten the bearing cap bolts an additional 57 °.
5. Remove the lower block and the bearings again, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the appropriate color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
6. Crankshaft Main Bearing - Selection
1. Numbers, letters, or bars have been stamped on either side of the lower block end as a code for the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the block bore codes. If you cannot read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.
3. Use the block bore codes and the main journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the following table.
NOTE:
* Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
* When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.
7. Cylinder Lower Block Assembly
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the lower block mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the lower block mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket, (P/N 08718-0004 or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the lower block, and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE:
* Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A).
* If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
4. Put the lower block on the engine block.
5. Apply new engine oil to the threads and flange of the bearing cap bolts.
6. Torque the bearing cap bolts, in sequence, to 25 Nm (2.5 kgfm, 18 lbfft).
7. Tighten the bearing cap bolts an additional 57 °.
8. Torque the 8 mm bolts, in sequence, to 24 Nm (2.4 kgfm, 17 lbfft).
NOTE:
* Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
* Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the lower block.
8. Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance Inspection
1. Clean the connecting rod journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.
2. Place plastigage across the rod journal.
3. Reinstall the bearing half and the cap, then torque the bolts to 20 Nm (2.0 kgfm, 15 lbfft) +90 °.
NOTE:
* Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges.
* Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
4. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
5. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the cap, and the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the appropriate color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
6. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check the clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
9. Connecting Rod Bearing Selection
1. Inspect each connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.
2. Each connecting rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.00094 in), in 0.006 mm (0.00024 in) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the rod cap, the other half is on the connecting rod.) If you cannot read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent.
3. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft in either location.
4. Use the big end bore codes and the rod journal codes to select appropriate replacement bearings from the following table.
NOTE:
* Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
* When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.
10. Connecting Rod Cap and The Bearing Half
1. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the connecting rod bolts.
2. Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1 and connecting rod No. 4. Line up the mark (A) on the connecting rod and the bearing cap.
3. Install the bearing caps and the bolts finger-tight.
4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into connecting rod No. 2 and connecting rod No. 3. Line up the mark on the connecting rod and the bearing cap.
5. Install the bearing caps and the bolts finger-tight.
6. Torque the connecting rod bolts to 20 Nm (2.0 kgfm, 14 lbfft).
7. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 90 °.
NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, inspect the connecting rod bolts. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
11. Engine Baffle Plate
1. Install the baffle plate.
12. Engine Oil Strainer
1. Install the oil strainer (A) with new O-ring (B).
13. Oil Pan Assembly
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket, (P/N 08718-0004 or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan, and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE:
* Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A).
* If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
4. Install the dowel pins (A).
5. Install the oil pan (B) with new O-rings (C).
6. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque all bolts, in sequence, to 18 Nm (1.8 kgfm, 13 lbfft). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the each side of crankshaft pulley and flywheel/drive plate.
NOTE:
* Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
* Do not run the engine within 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
14. Cylinder Head Assembly
1. Clean the cylinder head and the engine block surface.
2. Install a new coolant separator (A) in the engine block whenever the engine block is replaced.
3. Install the new cylinder head gasket (B) and the dowel pins (C) on the engine block. Always use a new cylinder head gasket.
4. Install the cylinder head on the engine block.
5. Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
6. If either diameter is less than 10.6 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.
7. Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.
8. Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 40 Nm (4.1 kgfm, 30 lbfft). Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset click-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.
9. After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90 ° per step using the sequence shown in step 8). If you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 60 °.
NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 5 of the procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.