Part 2
WM 1001Z1 Disassembling engine
Oil pan
35. Detach and remove joint flange on the oil pressure control valve -2-. Disconnect oil level sensor and remove by turning -5-.
Oil guide housing with accessories
36. Remove all oil lines between the oil guide housing and oil pump. => Oil lines on naturally aspirated engine => Oil lines on naturally aspirated engine, view with oil pan removed
Oil lines on naturally aspirated engine
Oil lines on naturally aspirated engine, view with oil pan removed
37. Remove all screws between the oil guide housing and crankcase/timing-case cover -4-. Don't forget the screws at the front -7-.
Oil guide housing with accessories
38. The oil guide housing is sealed with glue. To make it easier to remove, carefully lever off the oil guide housing between the outer flanges on the crankcase and the oil guide housing. => Removing oil guide housing Loosen by tapping carefully with a plastic hammer if necessary. Remove the entire oil guide housing. Remove old sealing ring for the crankcase.
Removing oil guide housing
39. Remove joint flange on vibration balancer -1- at the timing-case cover. To do this, remove the screws -2 and 3-.
Chain tensioner, joint flange
40. Remove all M6 and M8 screws on the timing-case cover => Timing-case cover and lift off timing-case cover. Also remove all the metal seals -2, 3, 4, 5-.
Timing-case cover
Timing-case cover seals
41. Remove timing chain -1- (mark rolling direction for reinstallation using a felt-tip pen) from all the sprockets and place on a clean surface.
Timing chain and sprockets
42. Remove tensioning rail -4-. Remove threaded peg -1- if necessary.
Tensioning rail
43. Remove U-rail (guide rail) -4-. To do this, remove four M8 screws -5-.
Timing chain and sprockets
44. Carefully slacken the lower tensioning rail for the oil pump chain. Press the tensioning rail back with a small screwdriver until both staking holes between the tensioning rail and guide rail are aligned. => Oil pump tensioning rail
Oil pump tensioning rail
45. Stake tensioning rail for oil pump chain through the hole in the guide rail using a suitable drill bit, drift punch or nail. This slackens the oil pump chain. => Staking tensioning rail for oil pump chain
Staking tensioning rail for oil pump chain
46. Remove guide rail -3-. Guide rail is locked with -6-.
Guide rail
47. If the sprockets and camshaft controllers are to be separated from the camshafts, now unscrew the loosened camshaft controllers and sprockets.
Camshaft adjustment
48. Slowly and uniformly loosen and unscrew all M6 screws -3 and 5- on the camshaft housings -2, 4 and 6-. The bearing covers are marked E for intake camshaft and A for outlet camshaft. The bearing covers are numbered consecutively by cylinder. The bearing covers are seated very securely in the cylinder head because of a dowel sleeve -1-. Jiggle free using a pliers if necessary. Place on a marked, clean surface.
Camshaft mount, cylinders 5 to 8
49. Remove camshafts -3 and 6- and place on a marked, clean surface.
Camshafts, cylinders 5 to 8
50. Remove valve lifters -1 and 2- and place on a marked, clean surface in such a way that they cannot be mixed up.
Diagram showing how to set down lifters
51. Remove mounting saddle at the front -8-. This hides the cylinder head screws underneath.
52. Remove front M8 screw securing the cylinder head of cylinders 1 to 4 to the crankcase. -3-
Cylinder head 1 to 4
53. Turn the engine so that the cylinder head you want to remove is pointing straight upwards.
54. The injectors can now be removed easily if necessary. For details, see -> 244019 Removing and installing fuel injector Service and Repair
55. Remove cylinder head screws in the opposite order to the tightening sequence shown => Tightening sequence for cylinder head. Remove cylinder head.
Tightening sequence for cylinder head
56. Remove cylinder head gasket.
57. Remove cylinder head for cylinders 5 to 8 in the same way.
58. Turn the engine around. The oil pump must be facing upwards.
59. Remove suction tube -1-. To do this, unscrew screws -3- and remove suction tube.
Suction tube for auxiliary sump
60. Remove chain cover for oil pump -9-. To do this, remove the screws -10-.
Oil pump on naturally aspirated engine
61. Remove drive pinion for oil pump. Screw is tightened beyond the elastic limit. Use a screwdriver to counter at the oil pump through the bore in the drive pinion. => Countering oil pump pinion
Countering oil pump pinion
62. Remove oil pump pinion with chain and crankshaft pinion. => Oil pump chain
Oil pump chain
63. Unscrew oil pump -1-. To do this, remove the screws -8-. Pull oil pump out at the point where the pipe engages at the rear with the oil plate. When doing so, make sure that the locking lug does not break off. Swivel oil pump up and out.
64. Unscrew oil plate/oil guide.
Oil return (oil plate), 2WD
Oil return (oil plate), 4WD
65. Remove lower part of crankcase. First unscrew the four M8 screws on the output side. 2WD -8 and 9- or 4WD -7 and 8-. The bearing screws for the 4WD shaft are shorter (keep these separate).
Lower part of crankcase, V8 2WD
Lower part of crankcase, V8 4WD
65.1. Unscrew outer M8 cross bolt connection in the opposite order to the tightening sequence. Always use new aluminium screws.
Tightening sequence for securing lower part of crankcase to upper part of crankcase (cross bolt connection)
65.2. Unscrew M10 and M11 thrust-bearing screws in the opposite order to the tightening sequence. Start with the outer M10 screws first.
Tightening sequence for thrust-bearing screws
65.3. Lift off lower part of crankcase. Get a second person to help if necessary. Remove old sealing ring for the upper part of the crankcase. Remove bearing shells if necessary and mark them.
66. Secure crankshaft at the centre using a holding bridge holding bridge 9677/1. Tighten screws slightly. -1-
Crankshaft secured
67. Loosen connecting rod bolts -6- and take off connecting rod caps -5-. Push piston in question out of the crankcase using a wooden rod. Hold it in your other hand or get another person to help. Fit connecting rod cap hand-tight to the connecting rod again using the old screws and set down after marking according to the relevant cylinder. The connecting rod bolts must be replaced with new ones during reinstallation. The connecting rods are cracked and the connecting rod code is facing the exhaust side. The combustion chamber recess on the piston is facing the injector.
Piston, connecting rod
68. Remove all pistons in the same way.
69. (If you have not already done so) turn the engine so that the crankshaft is at the top.
CAUTION
Heavy components
- Risk of squashing
-> Wear personal protective gear.
-> Get someone to help if necessary.
70. After removing all the pistons, remove the crankshaft -1- (remove holding bridge) and place on a clean surface.
Crankshaft
71. Remove all bearing shells -5 and 6- and thrust washers -4- if necessary. Mark the bearing shells and set them down.
72. Remove oil spray jets -6-. To do this, loosen the screws -7-.
Upper part of crankcase
73. Remove coolant guide -6-. Remove seals -7-.
Coolant guide
