Sliding Door Adjustments
SLIDING DOOR ADJUSTMENTVerify the flushness of the sliding door to the body at the upper and lower B-pillar and at the center of the C-pillar. If the sliding door is underflush to the body, perform the MINOR ADJUSTMENT procedure.
Fig. 24:
Verify that the rear (C-pillar) striker is properly aligned to the latch by verifying that the striker is positioned in the center of the latch (Fig. 24).
Verify that the stabilizer pin enters the front striker latch grommet on the B-pillar at an acceptable distance. The stabilizer pin should not enter the grommet too early which can interfere with door closing effort. The proper position of the stabilizer pin is one that fits snug into the front striker latch grommet with the door closed but does not come in contact with the front latch striker. If the rear striker is not positioned in the center of the latch, or if the stabilizer pin is not adjusted properly, perform the MINOR ADJUSTMENT procedure.
Verify that the character lines of the sliding door to the body at the B-pillar and at the C-pillar align properly. If the sliding door is not aligned properly to the body, perform the MAJOR ADJUSTMENT procedure.
MINOR ADJUSTMENT
1. Inspect the plastic quiet mat door catch on the bottom track. If the mat is missing or damaged, replace Quiet Mat Door Catch.
2. Inspect the lower roller bumper bracket for any damage. Replace the bumper bracket if any damage is noticed.
NOTE: PRIOR TO PERFORMING THE NEXT STEP, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO SCREW THE FRONT STABILIZER PIN INWARD TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PIN IS NOT CAUSING THE DOOR TO BE IMPROPERLY POSITIONED.
Fig. 25:
3. With the door closed, loosen the nut at the base of the front upper roller (Fig. 25) and allow the door to move outboard until the top front of the door is flush with the B-pillar. Tighten the nut to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque.
Fig. 26:
4. Verify that there is 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between the top of the upper roller and the track (Fig. 26). Adjust the clearance by loosening the front upper bracket screws and moving the bracket up or down until the proper clearance is obtained. Tighten the screws to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) of torque.
5. Loosen the lower roller bracket screws. Move the door in or out until the lower corner of the door is flush with the B-pillar with the door closed. Tighten the screws to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) of torque.
Fig. 27:
6. Loosen the rear striker screws and install or remove spacers (Fig. 27) until the striker is in the center of the latch. Then, move the striker in or out until the rear of the door is flush with the C-pillar. Tighten the screws to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque. Ensure that the striker is perpendicular to the C-pillar and is not tilted.
7. Remove the plug for accessing the front latch striker attaching nut from the forward side of the B-Pillar.
8. Loosen the nut and screw that attaches the front latch striker to the B-Pillar.
9. Adjust the front latch striker to a position where the stabilizer pin will not contact the striker when closing the door but will center into the striker with the door fully closed. Tighten the inner striker nut to 22 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque and the upper striker screw to 11 N.m (95 in. lbs.) of torque.
10. Install the B-Pillar plug.
11. Adjust the stabilizer pin so that pin fits snug into the front striker latch grommet with the door closed. A small amount of grease can be applied to the end of the stabilizer pin to help identify when the pin contacts the grommet. Adjust the pin out until witness marks appear on the front striker grommet then, tighten the lock nut on the pin.
12. Apply a thin coat of weatherstrip lubricant to the sliding door weatherstrip.
13. Open and close the sliding door to verify the repair.
MAJOR ADJUSTMENT
1. Inspect the lower roller bumper bracket for any damage. Replace the bumper bracket if any damage is noticed. Install the bumper bracket and tighten the attaching screw to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque.
NOTE: Prior to performing the next step, it may be necessary to screw the front stabilizer pin inward to make sure that the pin is not causing the door to be improperly positioned.
2. Loosen the rear striker screws. Adjust the rear striker so that the sliding door character lines match that of the C-Pillar. Tighten the screws to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque.
3. Close the sliding door.
4. Loosen the front upper roller bracket screws.
5. Remove the sliding door trim panel.
Fig. 28:
6. Loosen all of the door lower roller support bracket screws (Fig. 28).
7. Move the door to the correct up/down position and tighten the upper and lower roller support bracket screws to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) of torque.
8. With the door closed, loosen the nut at the base of the front upper roller (Fig. 25) and allow the door to move outboard until the top front of the door is flush with the B-pillar. Tighten the nut to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque.
9. Verify that there is 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between the top of the upper roller and the track (Fig. 26). Adjust the clearance by loosening the front upper bracket screws and moving the bracket up or down until the proper clearance is obtained. Tighten the screws to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) of torque.
10. Loosen the lower roller bracket screws. Move the door in or out until the lower corner of the door is flush with the B-pillar with the door closed. Tighten the screws to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) of torque.
11. Close the sliding door.
12. Remove the sliding door hinge and rear track covers.
Fig. 29:
13. Loosen the rear upper hinge bracket screws (Fig. 29).
Fig. 30:
14. Push the front edge of the hinge bracket upward to the maximum up-position (Fig. 30). Lightly tighten the bracket front screw.
Fig. 31:
15. Pull down on the hinge swing-arm (Fig. 31). Tighten the hinge bracket screws to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) of torque.
16. Loosen the rear striker screws and install or remove spacers (Fig. 27) until the striker is in the center of the latch. Then, move the striker in or out until the rear of the door is flush with the C-pillar. Tighten the screws to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque. Ensure that the striker is perpendicular to the C-pillar and is not tilted.
17. Repeat steps 2 through 16 until the sliding door properly fits fore/aft, up/down, and in/out for both the front and rear of the door.
18. Remove the plug for accessing the front latch striker attaching nut from the forward side of the B-Pillar.
19. Loosen the nut and screw that attaches the front latch striker to the B-Pillar.
20. Adjust the front latch striker to a position where the stabilizer pin will not contact the striker when closing the door but will center into the striker with the door fully closed. Tighten the inner striker nut to 22 N.m (200 in. lbs.) of torque and the upper striker screw to 11 N.m (95 in. lbs.) of torque.
21. Install the B-Pillar plug.
22. Adjust the stabilizer pin so that pin fits snug into the front striker latch grommet with the door closed. A small amount of grease can be applied to the end of the stabilizer pin to help identify when the pin contacts the grommet. Adjust the pin out until witness marks appear on the front striker grommet then, tighten the lock nut on the pin.
23. Apply a thin coat of weatherstrip lubricant to the sliding door weatherstrip.
24. Open and close the sliding door to verify the repair.
25. If the door is still difficult to close, adjust the sliding door closed-position Locking Catch/Striker.
26. Install sliding door trim panel.