Part 1

Engine

















Assembly

All vehicles

NOTE: This procedure assumes that the engine will be installed using the recommended body off engine installation procedure. If it will be necessary to install the engine using the alternate body on engine installation procedure, some of the components in this procedure should not be installed at this time. For additional information, refer to Engine - Body On Engine - Installation - Body On.

1. NOTE: Check alignment of the oil holes after installing the bearings.

If removed, use the Camshaft Service Set to install the camshaft bearings.





2. NOTICE: The patch bolt is unique. Do not substitute the patch bolt or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: Apply threadlock to the threads prior to installation.

Install the 8 piston cooling tubes and the 8 bolts.

- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





3. NOTICE: Do not nick or scratch the camshaft bearings with the camshaft lobes or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the camshaft prior to installing.

Install the camshaft and gear assembly and the 2 thrust plate mounting bolts.

- Tighten to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft).





4. Install the 4 new crankshaft upper bearings and the new crankshaft upper thrust bearing.
- Apply clean engine oil to the crankshaft side of the bearings.





5. NOTE: Make sure the 2 dowels on the back of the camshaft alignment tool insert into the holes in the camshaft gear.

Install the Camshaft Alignment Tool, aligning the camshaft timing mark as shown.





6. NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the crankshaft bearing journals prior to installing the crankshaft.

Install the crankshaft with the crankshaft timing peg in the slot in the Camshaft Alignment Tool, over the camshaft timing mark.





7. NOTE: Do not turn the crankshaft during the main bearing clearance check.

Position commercially available plastigage in the center of each main bearing cap.

8. NOTE: The locking tabs on the bearings shell are directional.

Install the 5 new crankcase lower bearings into the lower crankcase.





9. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, make sure that the longer main cap bolts (M14 x 2 x 127) are installed inboard and the shorter bolts (M14 x 2 x 114) are installed outboard.

NOTE: Lightly lubricate the new crankcase main bearing mounting bolt threads and flanges with clean engine oil.

Position the lower crankcase and install all 20 lower crankcase main bearing mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts in 3 stages in the sequence shown.

- Stage 1: Tighten to 149 Nm (110 lb-ft).

- Stage 2: Tighten to 176 Nm (130 lb-ft).

- Stage 3: Tighten to 231 Nm (170 lb-ft).





10. Remove the 20 bolts and the lower crankcase.





11. Measure the clearances for the main bearings. Remove the plastigage.





12. NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the lower main bearings.

NOTE: Clean the groove and sealing surfaces of the upper and lower crankcase with metal brake parts cleaner or equivalent prior to applying the gasket maker.

NOTE: Make sure the gasket maker is used sparingly and spread to form a thin film on the surfaces.

Apply a thin film of gasket maker to the bottom of the groove and the sealing surfaces of the lower crankcase. Install the new lower crankcase seals on the film of gasket maker in the grooves of the lower crankcase. Apply a thin film of gasket maker on the upper crankcase sealing surfaces.





13. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, make sure that the longer main cap bolts (M14 x 2 x 127) are installed inboard and the shorter bolts (M14 x 2 x 114) are installed outboard.

Position the lower crankcase and install all 20 lower crankcase main bearing mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts in 3 stages in the sequence shown.

- Stage 1: Tighten to 149 Nm (110 lb-ft).

- Stage 2: Tighten to 176 Nm (130 lb-ft).

- Stage 3: Tighten to 231 Nm (170 lb-ft).





14. NOTE: Failure to remove the Camshaft Alignment Tool will result in incorrect readings.

Remove the bolt and Camshaft Alignment Tool.





15. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not remove the rear primary crankshaft flange bolts under any circumstances. If the flange is removed and reinstalled, it will result in engine vibration and premature transmission component wear.

Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure the crankshaft end play.





16. Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure the camshaft end play.





17. Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure the camshaft gear backlash.





18. Install the block heater.
- Tighten to 41 Nm (30 lb-ft).





19. Install the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





20. Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





21. NOTICE: The connecting rods are powdered metal cracked rods. Make sure the connecting rod and cap are installed as a set or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: Lubricate the connecting rod bearings with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Install the new connecting rod bearings.





22. NOTICE: Make sure the ring openings are 120 degrees from each other or engine damage may occur.

Install new piston rings.

1. The top compression ring is identified with one indentation mark and a 15-degree keystone cross section. The ring must be installed with the indentation mark facing towards the piston crown (top).

2. The intermediate ring is identified with 2 indentation marks and a rectangular profile. The ring must be installed with the indentation marks facing towards the piston crown (top).

3. Install the oil control ring. Make sure the oil ring gap is 180-degrees from the spring wire latch.





23. NOTE: The piston assembly must be installed with the words "Cam Side" toward the inside of the engine, along with the long side of the connecting rod big end split.

NOTE: Use care when installing the piston assembly to not damage the piston cooling tubes. If the tube is bent during installation of the piston assembly, install a new piston cooling tube.

NOTE: Coat the cylinder walls and piston assembly with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the piston and rod assemblies.

1. Coat the inside diameter of the Piston Ring Compressor with clean engine oil.

2. Insert the piston into the Piston Ring Compressor. Position the piston, connecting rod and Piston Ring Compressor into the correct cylinder bore.
- Using a wood or plastic hammer handle, push the connecting rod and piston assembly down into the cylinder bore.





24. Position a piece of plastigage across the bearing surface.





25. NOTICE: The connecting rods are powdered metal cracked rods and care should be taken to make sure that the connecting rod caps are oriented correctly with the connecting rods or engine damage may occur.

Position the connecting rod cap and tighten the bolts in 2 stages.

- Stage 1: Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).

- Stage 2: Tighten to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).





26. Remove the bolts and the connecting rod cap.

27. Measure the clearances for the connecting rod cap. Remove the plastigage.





28. NOTICE: The connecting rods are powdered metal cracked rods and care should be taken to make sure that the connecting rod caps are oriented correctly with the connecting rods or engine damage may occur.

Position the connecting rod cap and tighten the bolts in 2 stages.

- Stage 1: Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).

- Stage 2: Tighten to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).





29. Using a Feeler Gauge Set, check for connecting rod side clearance.





30. NOTE: Upper oil pan gasket shown.

Install a new press-in-place upper and lower oil pan gasket into the upper oil pan.





31. Position the upper oil pan and install the 9 bolts.
- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





32. Install a new O-ring seal. Install the oil pump screen and pickup tube and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





33. Install the oil pan and the 22 bolts.

1. Install the 5 longer oil pan bolts.

2. Install the 17 remaining oil pan bolts.

- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





34. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, keep the valve tappets in the order in which they were removed. Install all valve tappets back in their original positions.

Apply clean engine oil to the valve tappets and install them into the valve tappet guides. Install the valve tappet guides and the 4 bolts.

- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





35. Install the 4 cylinder head dowels.





36. NOTE: Install a new cylinder head gasket with the part number facing up. Verify the top 5 bolt holes and the head gasket push rod holes line up.

NOTE: Use care to avoid scratching the blue compound on the cylinder head gaskets.

Place the 2 new cylinder head gaskets over the dowel sleeves and onto the crankcase.





37. Using the Cylinder Head Lifting Bracket, install the cylinder heads.





38. Install the 5 outer bolts for each cylinder head.
- Tighten finger-tight.





39. NOTICE: Using too much engine oil on the threads of the cylinder head bolts may cause damage to the threads and poor sealing. Using anti-seize compounds, grease or any other lubricants other than engine oil on the cylinder head bolt threads may affect the true torque value of the bolts.

NOTE: Left cylinder head shown, right cylinder head similar.

NOTE: Lightly lubricate the new cylinder head bolt threads and flanges with clean engine oil.

Install the 10 cylinder head retaining bolts for each cylinder head.

- Tighten finger-tight.





40. NOTE: If bolt chatter occurs during Stage 4 or 5, loosen the bolt and repeat Stage 3.

Tighten the cylinder head bolts in 7 stages in the sequence shown:

- Stage 1: Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 95 Nm (70 lb-ft).

- Stage 2: Loosen bolts 1 through 10.

- Stage 3: Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft).

- Stage 4: Tighten bolts in sequence, 1 through 10, an additional 90 degrees.

- Stage 5: Tighten bolts in sequence, 1 through 10, a second time, an additional 90 degrees.

- Stage 6: Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).

- Stage 7: Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft).





41. NOTE: Lubricate the seals with clean engine oil prior to installation.

If necessary, install the new seals for the high-pressure fuel rail.





42. Install the new press-in-place gaskets, the valve cover bases and the 22 bolts.
- Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).





43. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, keep the push rods in the order in which they were removed. Install all push rods back in their original positions.

NOTE: Install the copper ends of the push rods facing upward.

Apply clean engine oil to each end of the push rods and insert them into their respective positions.





44. NOTE: Coat the end of each valve stem with clean engine oil.

Install the 16 valve bridges.





45. Position the 2 rocker arm spacer bars.





46. NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the top center of each valve bridge and rocker arm ball socket.

Install the rocker arm assemblies and the 16 bolts in the following sequence.

1. Position the crankshaft with the No. 1 and the No. 4 cylinders at approximately Top Dead Center (TDC) by observing the damper dowel pin and clocking it to the 10:30 position (as viewed from the front of the engine).

2. Determine which cylinder is actually in the firing position by observing the push rods for No. 3 intake and No. 8 intake valves.

3. If the No. 3 intake push rod shows cam lift, this is the No. 1 firing position. Tighten only fulcrum plates No. 1, 2, 7 and 8 per Substeps 4 through 6. If the No. 8 intake push rod shows cam lift, this is the No. 4 firing position. Tighten only fulcrum plates No. 3, 4, 5 and 6 per Substeps 4 through 6.

4. Partially run down both M10 bolts until they contact the fulcrum plate.

5. Fully run down and tighten the inboard (upper) bolt.
- Tighten to 61 Nm (45 lb-ft).

6. Fully run down and tighten the outboard (lower) bolt.
- Tighten to 61 Nm (45 lb-ft).

7. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution to position it at the alternate cylinder TDC (dowel again at 10:30 position).

8. Identify the remaining group of fulcrum plates per Substep 3 and tighten per Substeps 4 through 6.

9. Verify that the pivot foot is centered on the valve bridge.





47. NOTE: The bead on the soft steel washer must be installed facing out.

NOTE: Lubricate the fuel injector and O-ring seal with clean engine oil.

Install a new O-ring seal and a soft steel washer on the fuel injector.





48. NOTICE: Failure to tighten the fuel injector correctly can lead to engine failure.

NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not use air tools to install the fuel injectors. The snap ring that extracts the fuel injector can dislodge and fall into the oil drain hole.

Install the fuel injector, the fuel injector hold down and bolt.

- Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).





49. NOTE: RH shown, LH similar.

Install the high-pressure fuel rails and 4 bolts.

- Tighten hand-tight.





50. NOTE: Use a back-up wrench on the fuel injector fittings.

NOTE: Use a crowfoot wrench to aid in tightening the fuel injector supply tube.

Install the new fuel injector supply tubes in the following sequence.

1. Remove the protective caps from the high-pressure fuel rails and fuel injectors one at a time prior to assembly of each tube.

2. Position the 8 fuel injector supply tubes (one at a time) between the high-pressure fuel rail and fuel injectors, and fully hand start and seat the tube nuts onto the mating high-pressure fuel rail and fuel injector connectors. Snug the fuel injector supply tube nuts using the inside-out step sequence (2 inside tubes first, then 2 outside tubes).
- Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque.

- Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).

3. Tighten the fuel injector hold-down clamp bolts.
- Tighten to 38 Nm (28 lb-ft).

4. Tighten the high-pressure fuel rail bolts.
- Tighten to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft).

5. NOTE: Pre-tighten the 8 fuel injector tube nuts at the fuel injectors first, then the 8 nuts at the high-pressure fuel rails.

Pre-tighten the fuel injector tube nuts at the fuel injectors and at the high-pressure fuel rails.
- Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque.

- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).

6. NOTE: Place a visible mark with a permanent marker on the high-pressure fuel rail and fuel injector threaded connection. Turning the tube nuts one flat of the nut is equal to 60 degrees.

Complete the tightening of the fuel injector tube nuts at the fuel injectors and at the high-pressure fuel rails.
- Tighten the tube nuts 60 degrees.