Technical Information
ATTACHMENT III Page 1 of 7
F350 4 x 2 DRW VEHICLES WITH FRONT WHEEL SHIMMY 88S39 SUPPLEMENT #2 REPAIR
The following actions supersede original Recall 88S39 instructions (shimmy only vehicles) dated February, 1988.
Procedure is as follows:
1. Inspect front end for loose, damaged or abnormally worn parts. Areas to check are:
A. Front Suspension Components
.. Radius arm and bushings
.. Axle and axle pivot bushings
.. Axle pivot brackets
.. Front shock absorbers
B. Steering Components
.. Drag link and tie rod ends
.. Steering gear
.. Steering gear mesh load
C. Wheels and Tires Wheel
.. bearing end play
.. Wheels/tires
NOTE: FOLLOW THIS RECALL PROCEDURE TO REPAIR BOTH (RH & LH) SIDES OF THE VEHICLE.
Tighten any attachments found loose and replace component as required.
NOTE: As you check for looseness, pay close attention to the following:
Axle pivot bolts, axle pivot brackets to frame attachment, radius arm bracket to frame attachment, radius arm to axle attachment and tie rod ends adjuster clamp bolts.
REMOVING SPACER ("WEDDING BAND") FROM RADIUS ARM ON RIGHT SIDE AND INSTALL
NEW RADIUS ARM BUSHING: (SEE DRAWING ATTACHMENTS 1, 2, or 3)
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and place safety stands under the frame and a jack under the axle. Refer to the 1988 Truck Shop Manual, Vol. A, Section 50-04, Hoisting, Jacking and Towing, for hoisting instructions. Remove front tires. If equipped with stabilizer, disconnect four front stabilizer bar bolts at frame.
NOTE: The axle must be supported on the Jack throughout spacer removal. AXLE MUST NOT be permitted to HANG BY the BRAKE HOSE.
Remove disc brake caliper from the spindle according to the procedures specified in the 1988 Truck Shop Manual, Vol. A, Section 12-24. "Disc Brakes - Light and Heavy Duty - Sliding Caliper. After removal, the caliper must be wired to the frame or supported to prevent suspending the caliper from the brake hose. These precautions are necessary to prevent serious damage to the tube portion of the caliper hose assembly. DO NOT DISCONNECT CALIPER FROM BRAKE HOSE.
3. Disconnect the right hand shock absorber from the lower bracket. (See Drawing Attachment I)
4. Remove the coil spring upper retainer bolts/screws from the upper spring seat, remove the retainer.
5. Slowly lower axle until coil spring separates from upper spring seat.
6. Using a ratchet, long extension and a 1-1/8" deep well socket loosen the spring lower retainer to the lower seat retainer nut.
7. Remove axle pivot bushing nut and through bolt. Remove "I" Beam axle from axle pivot bracket.
8. Slowly lower the axle, to its limit. Raise slightly to support axle weight on jack.
9. Remove and save the nut, two rear washers, EFI engine exhaust heat shield (right side only), insulator and spacer from the rear side of the radius arm bracket.
NOTE: SOME VEHICLES WILL ONLY HAVE ONE REAR WASHER.
10. Push the "I" beam axle forward until radius arm separates from the radius arm bracket.
11. Remove and save inner retainer and spacer from radius arm. Discard "wedding band spacer". DO NOT REINSTALL "WEDDING BAND". See Drawing Attachments 1, 2 and 3.
12. Install the inner retainer and new front bushing on the radius arm stud and insert the stud through the radius arm bracket.
NOTE: For vehicles with EFI engines, an exhaust heat shield MUST be installed between the outer insulator and washer (right side only). See Drawing Attachments 2 or 3.
13. Install the spacer, insulator, right side exhaust heat shield (for EFI engines only), rear washer (or washers) and nut on the radius arm stud behind the radius arm bracket. Tighten the nut to 109-162 N-m (80-120 ft.lbs.).
REINSTALL RIGHT SIDE FRONT SPRING
14. Place the spring in position and using long extension and 1-1/8" deep well socket, torque the lower spring retainer nut to 95-135 N-m (70-100 ft.lbs.). Slowly raise the front axle and position spring into spring upper seat.
15. Position the upper retainer over the coil spring and against the spring upper seat, and install the attaching screw.
16. Tighten the upper retainer attaching bolt to specifications which follow:
Upper Retainer, 18-24 N-m (13-18 ft.lbs.).
17. Connect the shock absorber to the lower bracket. Install the lower bolt with head towards the tire and tighten nut to 55-81 N-m (40-60 ft.lbs.).
18. Reinstall front stabilizer bar (if so equipped). Tighten nut to 70-100 N-m (52-74 ft.lbs.).
19. Reinstall front calipers and axle "I" beam, hand tighten axle pivot bracket nut and bolt. (NOTE: Final torque is given in Step 34).
INSTALL NEW CASTER/CAMBER ADJUSTERS, RIGHT SIDE (Ref. 1988 Truck Shop Manual. Vol. A, Pg. 14-21-9: (See Drawing Attachment I) Removal
20. Remove the upper ball joint caster/camber adjuster clamp bolt nut and remove the clamp bolt from the axle.
21. Remove the camber adjuster from the axle using Tool D81T-3010-B to wedge the adjuster out of the axle.
Installation
22. Install the new caster/camber adjuster into the axle, aligning the adjuster pin to the slot in the adjuster correctly. (Drawing Attachment 1)
23. Install the upper ball joint caster/camber adjuster clamp bolt and nut in the axle. Tighten the nut to 65-88 N-m (48-65 ft.lbs.)
NOTE: Camber adjusters are identified as follows:
PART NO. COLOR CODE
E8TZ-3B440-D BROWN (DRIVER'S SIDE)
E8TZ-3B440-E YELLOW (PASSENGER'S SIDE)
24. Repeat repair procedure for left side (driver's side) of vehicle.
25. Balance front tire assemblies.
GEAR LINER TO FRAME RIVET REPAIR: (See Drawing Attachments 4 and 5)
26. Replace rivet (marked V1, in Attachment 4 and 5) that attaches steering gear liner and cross member to frame side rail with me (1) 9/16 inch bolt, one (1) washer and one (1) nut. See Drawing Attachments 4 and 5 for details for removing rivet and installing bolt, washer, and nut. Hand Torque nut to 190 N-m (140 FT.LBS.) and tack weld the nut to the bolt to prevent loosening.
NOTE: ORIENTATION OF BOLT HEAD IS IMPORTANT TO PROVIDE BEST CLAMPING. SEE DRAWING ATTACHMENT 5.
INSTALL FRONT STEERING DAMPER:
27. Be sure all surfaces shown in Drawing Attachments 6, 7 and 8 are clean and dry before attaching brackets.
28. Place template provided in steering damper kit around the passenger side front cross member rivet. Make sure template is flush with the inside of the frame rail as shown in drawing Attachment 6, Fig. 1. Using a center punch, mark the frame through the holes in the template. Remove the template and drill two 17/32 inch holes.
29. Attach Bracket A to the shock end of the steering damper shock as shown in Drawing Attachment 6, Fig. 2. Torque nut to 47-54 N-m (35-40 ft.lbs.). Install bracket A on top of the frame rail as shown in drawing Attachment 7, Fig. 3, and torque nuts to 102-122 N-m (75-90 ft.lbs.).
30. Install Bracket B on the drag link of the steering linkage as shown in drawing Attachment 7, Fig. 4, leaving the nuts loose.
31. Turn the wheels all the way to the right and be sure they are held there (Use an assistant to turn and hold the steering wheel or turn the ignition switch on, then turn the steering yourself all the way to the right and turn the key to the off position to lock the wheels in a full right turn). Check to see that the right hand spindle steering stop is in contact with the axle steering stop behind the lower ball joint. Install the shock rod end of the steering damper to bracket B as. shown in drawing Attachment 8, Fig. 5. Torque the steering damper shock to bracket B nut to 74-88 N-m (55-65 ft.lbs.).
32. Adjust bracket B along the drag link so that 1/2 inch of the steering amper shock rod is extended. (TIGHTEN THE U-BOLT NUTS THAT ATTACHES BRACKET B TO DRAG LINK TO 20-24 N-m 15-18 FT.LBS.).
NOTE: PLEASE USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON THE "U" BOLT NUTS. IMPROPER TORQUE OF "U" BOLTS COULD LEAD TO LOOSENING OF BRACKET "B" AND A SHIMMY CONDITION. BE SURE THE MOUNTING FLANGE OF BRACKET B IS VERTICAL AS SHOWN IN DRAWING ATTACHMENT 8, FIG. 6.
33. Turn wheels all the way to the left (using the same procedure as in step 31) to be sure the steering damper shock does not bottom out. The steering damper shock rod length should be between 7-1/2 and 8 inches with the wheels locked in full left turn as shown in drawing Attachment 8. If the rod length is not between 7-1/2 and 8 inches, then loosen the U-bolt nuts and slide bracket B, (drawing Attachment 8, Figure 6) along the drag link until the rod length is between 7-1/2 and 8 inches. Retorque the U-bolt nuts to 20-24 N-m (15-18 ft.lbs.). As a final check, turn the wheels to full right turn to be sure the steering damper shock does not bottom out.
34. Lower vehicle to shop floor. With the weight of vehicle on the suspension, tighten pivot bushing bolt and nut to 163-203 N-m (120-150 ft.lbs). Recheck all nuts for tightness.
FRONT END ALIGNMENT AND ROAD TEST:
35. To determine if front springs are correct for vehicle, the front springs installed on vehicle must be verified for capacity. Loads in excess of the spring rated capacity will increase caster due to low ride height. Measure front ride height (measure between bottom of spring tower and top of axle) as you would when checking front alignment. (See Shop Manual Vol. A Page 14-01-7). If the measured height is greater than 3.00 inches R.H. and 3.35 (or 3-11/32) inches L.H., the froat springs are adequate for the vehicle. If the measured height is less than these dimensions, the front end must be weighed and front springs selected from chart below. Pick a spring whose spring capacity equals or exceeds the weight measured. Note, the vehicle should be close to operational weight when measuring front end ride height and also when weighing vehicle. If not, incorrect front springs will be selected for the particular customer vehicle.
36. Check toe-in and set toe-in as described in 1988 Truck Shop Manual, Vol. A, Pg. 14-01-6.
Camber and caster specification range in general is:
CAMBER - 1.0~ to + 1.5~
CASTER + 1.0~ to + 4.0~
TOE IN 1/32"
37. Road test vehicle.
SECTOR SHAFT REPLACEMENT. FOR STEERING BOX REMOVAL SEE 1988 TRUCK SHOP MANUAL, VOL. A, PG. 13-41-5):
38. If the customer has experienced front wheel shimmy replace steering gear sector shaft and seal per 1988 Truck Shop Manual, Vol. A, Pg. 13-41-6 Steering Gear Disassembly.
39. With steering gear removed, inspect steering gear liner for any cracks. If liner is cracked or fractured, replace with frame repair liner kit.
Inspect the frame for cracks in the following locations:
^ frame rail near steering gear top and bottom flanges
^ frame rail at steering gear bolt heads
^ frame rail at or near spring tower bracket
^ engine cross member front L.H. flange
Cracks in these locations will require frame replacement. Contact your supervising Ford office for assistance.
WELD REPAIR ALONE IS NOT A LASTING AND PERMANENT REPAIR.
Inspect rivets attaching the engine cross member (labeled X1, X2, X3 X4, X5, X6 Attachment IV) to the frame rail for looseness or missing. These can only be replaced with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts, locknuts, and hardened washers (except rivet labeled V1, Attachment IV. For rivet V1, use one 9/16 inch fastener (labeled V1 in Attachment IV) as defined in step 26). Torqued 1/2 inch fastener to 136 N-m (100 ft.lbs.).
GEAR LINER TO FRAME RIVET REPAIR:
40. Replace V1 rivet that attaches steering gear liner and cross member to frame side rail with one (1) 9/16 inch bolt, one (1) washer, and one (1) nut. See ATTACHMENT IV for details on removing rivet and procedure in installing bolt, washer, and nut. Hand torque nut to 190 N-m (140 ft.lbs.) and tack weld the nut to the bolt to prevent loosening. Note orientation of bolt head is important to provide best clamping. See ATTACHMENT V.