Fuse Link and Butt Connector

If it becomes necessary to replace a fuse link in a wiring assembly, make sure the replacement fuse link is a duplicate of the one removed with respect to gauge, length and insulation. Original and Ford replacement fuse links have insulation that is flameproof. Do not fabricate a fuse link from ordinary wire because the insulation may not be flameproof.

If a circuit protected by a fusible link becomes inoperative, inspect for a blown fuse link. If the fuse link wire insulation is burned or opened, disconnect the feed wire part of the wiring and cut out the damaged portion as close as possible behind the splice in the harness. If the damaged fuse link is between two splices (weld points in the harness), cut out the damaged portion as close as possible to the weld points.





To service any blown fusible link or to splice broken wires, Use the following procedure.

1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the blown fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.

2. Disconnect the battery to starter relay cable.

NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.

3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the Wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice and discard it.

4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.





5. To repair double terminated fusible links when only one link has blown and the other link is not damaged:
a. Cutout blown link (two places).
b. Position correct eyelet type service fusible link and bare butt connector.
c. Crimp serviced joint and heat with heat gun until tubing shrinks and adhesive flows from each end.

6. Strip 7.6 mm (0.3 inch) of insulation from wires and insert into proper gauge wire connector, crimp and heat splice insulation until tubing shrinks and adhesive flows from each end of connector.

7. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion. Strip approximately 13 mm (1/2 inch) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size wire connectors.

8. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the blown fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 13 mm (1/2 inch) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate size wire connector.

9. If the damaged fuse link is between two splices (weld points in the harness), cut out the damaged portion as close to the weld points as possible.

NOTE: Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating: Resistor - Do not cut or splice.

NOTE: When attaching a No. 16, 18 or 20 gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the wire connector for positive wire retention.

10. Reconnect the battery to starter relay cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.