Do you have access to Mitchell1 Prodemand, or eautorepair.net DIY? If you are willing to share user/password (we can pay), please get in contact with us ASAP (truly, it is urgent): email operation-charm [[at]] tuta.io or click to submit anonymously
Part 4
Engine
Engine Upper
Engine Upper - LH Cylinder Head
Engine Upper - RH Cylinder Head
Engine Front
NOTE: Early build shown, late build similar.
Lower Engine Block (View 1)
Lower Engine Block (View 2)
NOTICE: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.
NOTICE: Assembly of the engine requires various inspections/measurements of the engine components (engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and piston rings). These inspections/measurements will aid in determining if the engine components will require replacement. For additional information, refer to Engine.
NOTICE: Early build vehicle (built before January 19, 2009) cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft(R) Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Late build vehicle (built on or after January 19, 2009) cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft(R) Specialty Green Engine Coolant. Mixing coolant types degrades the corrosion protection of the coolant. Do not mix coolant types. Failure to follow these instructions may result in engine or cooling system damage.
NOTICE: Early build engines have 11 fastener valve covers, late build engines have 9 fastener valve covers. Do not attempt to install bolts in the 2 empty late build valve cover holes or damage to the valve cover will occur.
NOTE: On early build engines, the timing chain rides on the inner side of the RH timing chain guide. Late build engines are equipped with a different design RH timing chain guide that requires the timing chain to ride on the outer side of the RH timing chain guide. For service, all replacement RH timing chain guides will be the late build design.
100. Install and connect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor jumper harness.
101. NOTICE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.
Using new gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
102. Using a new gasket, install the thermostat housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
103. NOTICE: Use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. The use of ordinary O-rings can cause the fuel system to leak. Do not reuse the O-ring seals.
NOTE: The upper and lower O-ring seals are not interchangeable.
Install new fuel injector O-ring seals.
- Remove the retaining clips and separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
- Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
- Install new O-ring seals and lubricate with clean engine oil.
- Install the fuel injectors and the retaining clips onto the fuel rail.
104. Install the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly and install the 4 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles
105. Install the catalytic converter bracket and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
All vehicles
106. Install the RH CMP sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
107. Install the engine lifting eye and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
108. Install the cover and the pin-type retainer.
109. Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
110. Install the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
111. Install 6 new RH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
112. NOTICE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak.
Using a new gasket, install the RH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicles
113. Install the RH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
114. Using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter and the 4 new nuts.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
All vehicles
115. Install 6 new LH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
116. NOTICE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak.
Using a new gasket, install the LH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
117. Install the LH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
118. Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and 4 new nuts (3 shown).
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
119. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).
120. Install the power steering pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
121. Install the generator, the bolt and the nut.
- Tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).
122. Position the wiring harness onto the engine.
123. Connect the EOP switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
124. Attach the wiring harness retainer to the generator.
125. Connect the generator electrical connector.
126. Connect the generator B+ cable and install the nut.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).
127. Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
128. Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector.
129. Install the wiring harness grommet.
130. Install the wiring harness retainer stud bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
131. Install the heat shield, the nut and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).