Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must reset engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS), otherwise the ECM/PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
- If you disconnect the battery, do the power window control unit reset procedure.
Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Alternate Procedure
1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1,200 rpm
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
4. With the shift lever in N or P (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection fixed the problem. The starting system is now OK. Go to step 11.
NO - If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
6. Make sure the transmission is in Neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
7. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T)
- Check the starter cut relay.
8. Check the cranking voltage and the current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 85 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause:
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
9. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 10.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause:
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
10. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
11. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.