Radiator Fan Circuit Troubleshooting

Radiator Fan Circuit Troubleshooting

1. Check the No. 3-6 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.

NO - Replace the fuse(s) and recheck. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan motor and driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector terminal F26 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B6.


2. Remove the radiator fan relay and disconnect and remove the relay circuit board from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Testing and Inspection

Is the relay and/or the relay circuit board OK?
YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Replace the radiator fan relay and/or the relay circuit board.


3. Measure the voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 4.

NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.






4. Connect radiator fan relay 4P socket terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire.

Does the radiator fan run?
YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Go to step 5.






5. Test the radiator fan motor. Testing and Inspection

Is the motor OK?
YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Replace the radiator fan motor. Service and Repair


6. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector.

7. Check for continuity between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.

Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.






8. Check for continuity between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.

Is there continuity?
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the under-hood fuse/relay box, the radiator fan motor and body ground G201.

NO - Repair open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G201.






9. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Check for voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 4 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.






10. Disconnect under-hood fuse/relay box connector B (14P).

11. Check for continuity between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8.

Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 12.

NO - Repair open in the wire between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8.






12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

13. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview

14. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

15. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. Testing and Inspection

16. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.

17. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (49P), then check for continuity between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B7 and ECM/PCM connector terminal A6.

Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, ECM/PCM Update or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Service and Repair

NO - Repair open in the wire between ECM/PCM connector terminal A6 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B7.