Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
Special Tools Required
- Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter tester OTC3131
Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
NOTE:
- Air temperature must be within 59-100 °F (15-38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown.
NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST.
Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE?
YES - The battery is OK. Go to step 3.
NO - If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.. Testing and Inspection
6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P (A/T model) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T model), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 14.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 14.
NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:
- If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12.
- If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
10. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P (A/T model) or neutral (M/T model), then disconnect the engine wire harness 1P connector (A). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter subharness 1P connector (B).
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Check the starter subharness. If the wire is OK, remove the starter, Removal and Replacement then repair or replace Overhaul it as necessary.
11. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 14.
- Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch.
- Check for an open or short in the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the engine wire harness 1P connector.
- Check for an open or short in the ORN wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the clutch interlock switch (M/T model).
- Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire, BLU/WHT wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the transmission range switch (A/T model).
- Check for poor ground at G302 (M/T model) or G101 (A/T model).
- Check for a faulty ignition switch. Testing and Inspection
- Check for a faulty clutch interlock switch (M/T model). Clutch Interlock Switch Test (M/T)
- Check for a faulty transmission range switch (A/T model). Testing and Inspection
- Check for a faulty starter cut relay. Testing and Inspection
12. Do the STARTING TEST with the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester.
Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V (M/T model)/7.7 V (A/T model) and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A (M/T model)/400 A (A/T model)?
YES - Go to step 13.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Short in the armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty overrunning clutch
13. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
14. Select ECM/PCM reset Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.